Sitting at home with my cup of green tea,I’m thinking about the week that went by. It was our (husband and I) first vacation of 2018 and we were headed to what I call ‘the camel land’ – Rajasthan. One fantastic part about packing for this trip was ‘no weight restrictions’ since we had planned the entire travel by train. While that didn’t matter much to the husband who was content with his 2 jeans and 6 tees concept, I was over the moon thinking about the dresses ,matching accessories and oh the matching footwear! Girls I say! SIGH! 😛
Our strategy was simple. We decided to cover the longest journey on the first day since my crankiness level is very minimal (almost negligible) at this point. For all those who don’t know me well , I’m not a great person to travel with my motion sickness and home-sickness which sets in after 4 days of leaving home. But this trip was exceptional! My threshold was a whooping 8 days post which the crankiness had begun! God save this poor guy who puts up with the ‘nautanki me’ 😛
We reached the yellow city – Jaisalmer around midnight after a 18 hour journey from Gurgaon (more about the train in the last part of this article). Most of the hotels there were previously havelis which have now been converted. So don’t expect room service or towels or shampoo like you would normally get in a ‘hotel’. Carry your own stuff and you’ll be good to go. Gandhi Chowk is an area with a lot of these budget hotels and it’s at a walk-able distance from the major tourist attractions (so you save up on intra city travel costs).
On day 1 , our first visit was to ‘Patwon-ki’haveli’. This is a series of 5 lavish houses built-in a row by a business man for his 5 sons. The first one has been maintained extremely well and is now a museum which includes a ‘turban room’ , ‘vessels room’ , ‘dressing room’ , ‘entertainment room’ and much more.
A guide isn’t necessary here since the signages are self-explanatory.
As we finished exploring this haveli , there was a policeman who walked up to us and asked us to have a look at the fifth haveli (which was interestingly the first one to be built). This is the haveli which was taken over by the government but lies in shackles. The guides don’t get a commission for this unlike in the first haveli and hence the zero crowd. But as the saying goes , don’t judge a book by its cover. Though this wasn’t at the best of its neatness , the beauty and intricacies were breathtaking! In the 2nd and 4th haveli, families of the businessman live. By the time we finished looking around, we started hearing noises from our tummies. We zeroed in on ‘Sunrise paratha house’ – this cute little ‘thallu vandi’ shop right opposite the Jaisalmer fort parking. It was run by a husband and a wife who were making delicious parathas oozing out with butter served with achaar and dahi. It was so tasty that we went back there the next day as well!
Before we could set out on the most awaited ‘desert safari’ , we spent a few minutes near Gadisar Lake and also shopped for something which stayed a constant throughout the trip – the pagdis on our mandais! More than the place , there is this place right in the beginning where you could get clicked with traditional rajasthani costumes. Its just a 10 minutes thing! Go for it!
We had booked our safaris with Real Desert Safari and it was one of the best decisions! Punctual , organised and no false promises – what more do you need? The half a day package was chosen and we got on to our jeeps all set to explore the Thar desert!
The first halt was at an abandoned village about 20 minutes from the city and the ruins were spectacular to look at! Beauty can truly be found anywhere! The next stop was right inside the desert. We hopped on to our camels and rode on for the next half hour until we reached the dune area. We stayed there for a good one hour until we witnessed the sunset. It was MAGICAL! Oh! Did I mention our camel names? Mine was Mr.India and the husband’s was “kalu’. Mine was just cooler :p
The safari managers had planned for a cultural programme for the evening followed by traditional rajasthani food.
This gorgeous young woman just swept us all off the floor with her charming moves! It was a delight for the eyes and the ears with the music being played by a village group. On the way back , we saw a clear sky and we could even spot the stars!! (A gift for a person from a pollution clad city, isn’t it?)
The next day included a trip to the magnificent fort (which personally I felt looked more stunning from anywhere else in the city ,especially during the night-time). 1/4th of the city resides inside the complex and it wasn’t a great tourist experience but there is always time for photos. Isn’t it?
Yellow done. Next was BLUEEE! All through the way the husband kept singing ‘unakenna venum sollu’ from the movie ‘Yennai Arindhal’ and you’ll know why when you look at the picture below. One part of the city is still being conserved and you can get a feel of the blue city by walking through those super narrow lanes (through which people drive at 40-50 kmph to impress who – i’m not too sure)!
The first ‘touristy place’ we went to was the ‘Umaid Bhawan Palace’ and it was quite disappointing. We spent hardly 20 minutes in the two rooms open to public view and we had to head out. You can see the other parts of the property if you can afford to stay at ‘Taj Umaid Palace Hotel’ 😛 (distant dream , so we are cool). It was an expensive affair and not worth it!
The Visit to the Mehrangarh fort took away all the disappointment from the previous day. I would highly recommend an audio guide for the tour. Every single room and wall had a story to tell. One of the anecdotes which moved us was a wall with many palms embedded on it.
It was the place where women after losing their husbands would come and leave an impression before they jump into the fire. Saddening , isn’t it? That’s how certain parts of history were! We should probably be happy that we weren’t born in that era! From Jaswant Thada , you can catch the entire view of the fort!
And for a view of the blue city, you got to go to the ‘Bhramapuri side’ of the fort. Ask any local and he/she can guide you. The people in general were extremely helpful. Take a hotel near Umaid Chowk and it’s again at a walk-able distance from the fort and Jaswant thada and the markets. The evening stroll to the clock tower market was quite an interesting one. It was like walking into a LESSER CROWDED AND LESSER PRICED RANGANATHAN STREET! Pick any saree for INR 100 , pick 100gms of biscuits for INR 20 , gol gappa for INR 10 , lassi for INR 20 and what not!
Also there was this place ‘Shahi Samosa’ which had only samosa on its menu! No chutney or sauce to accompany it. Just samosa for INR 12.50 (no one eats one probably? It’s always INR 25 I guess :P). It was just too much fun to walk around and exploring the busy market. Before heading back , we visited the clock tower where this person who was managing the clock told us that it was built by his father and only the two of them know about the complexity of its working! He was quite insistent that we took a picture of him and uploaded it on facebook! Social media marketing , probably!
The next city lined up in our agenda was Ajmer and it was quite an experience (beginning with the guy in our bay who wouldn’t stop snoring loudly all through the night)! The lanes leading up to the Dargah were very similar to the lanes of Chandni Chowk. One prominent item in most of the shops was ‘Sohan Halwa’ and its display. It’s a MUST TRY! We entered the Dargah and before we could wink our eyes , we were ‘dragged , given blessings and asked for money’. Be a little cautious and strong enough to say NO! A fulfilling meal awaited us at Surya Shakti Bhavan right opposite the railway station (again a walk-able distance from dargah). Probably never had softer rotis and a yummier masala buttermilk :O
While we were considering the options of auto or car to Pushkar, the guy who served us lunch suggested taking a bus instead. It turned out to be a good ride and hey! cost-effective too (also , did you know that women get a concession on these tickets?) The bus ride to Pushkar is for half an hour and it was such a beautiful small town! The must visit places there are the lake , Bhramma temple and a south indian temple which we found by chance. Not too crowded and gives a peaceful experience! The markets are beautiful and everything is extremely nominally priced that you don’t have the heart to bargain! Pick up the stuffed dolls at just INR 100 for a jodi (just buy them!!).
Lake city was calling us next and this was one of top picks! We had booked our stay at Hostel Moustache in Jagdish chowk (not a spelling error , it is a HOSTEL).
I have heard tales about such similar hostels across the world from the husband man where he keeps saying how its a great experience meeting and staying with people from different cultural and geographical backgrounds! Since we didn’t want to explore much , we opted for a private room instead of a dormitory set up. I loved the environment there – cute drawings on the walls , mattresses for resting right in the reception , black board , yoga classes on the terrace and much more. They are currently operating in Agra,Jaipur,Pushkar,Udaipur and Rishikesh.
If you are planning to visit any of these places , don’t think twice about Moustache for your stay! I LOVED IT!
Lake Pichola (movies like Yeh Jawaani and a James Bond movie were shot there) was picturesque but the haveli right next to it was even more gorgeous! The first room we entered in Bagore-ki-haveli was filled with colourful puppet figures.
It resembled a durbar at a palace. Every doll was made to perfection and it was visual treat! We explored the other rooms of the haveli and it was definitely worth it!
A walk to the Jagdish temple should definitely be on your list. A small place but how well maintained it is , is definitely a lesson for many such religious places in the country! City Palace (both in day and evening view) is breath takingly beautiful! Again , I would recommend taking an audio guide for the tour. Every room shows us how lavish their lifestyle has been and some parts also tell us how miserable lives of the women who lived then must have been! The husband man was quite disappointed that we had to view the Lake Palace and Jag Mandir from a distance only (the palace is now a hotel maintained by Taj where room rates start at INR 40k/night and Jag Mandir is a fine dining restaurant). A must buy in Udaipur would be the paintings which can be found in the lanes leading up to the palace. Prices start at as low as INR 10 and go upwards from there! They make a beautiful decor for your home and also a good souvenir for your near and dear ones (for those who truly deserve it only :p). OH! OH! And cafe Edelwises in Jagdish chowk is a must go for cheesecake lovers (must thank a dear friend for her last-minute recommendation).
By this time, we could realise the energy levels getting dropped and crankiness level increasing proportionately! The last stop was ‘Pink city’!
Home cooked food awaited us once we stepped into the city (perks of having a close family member) and it surely did charge us up a bit before we could do some touristy things for the day! Amer fort was the first stop. Though we wanted to take an audio guide , the booking office had other plans for us. They had run out of AGs and we opted for this guy who promised to explain the details in English. Once he knew we were Tamil speaking , he pulled in examples about movies like ‘Vasantha Maaligai’, ‘Adimai Pen’ and “kadhal Kottai’ being shot there along with ‘Jodha Akbar’!
Also , did you know that the fort houses 12 different rooms for the 12 wives of the king (one for each sun sign , apparently) and how only the favourite wife got a jacuzzi! BIZARRE HISTORY! Post that , he took us to a place where there was live demonstration of vegetable dye and block printing and stone cutting. Oh and we shopped for some super soft quilts too! It was a fair price shop and original stuff (lots of rip offs in the markets) and best part? you have to pay and advance and they deliver it to the city of your choice! So no extra weight on your back! Cool , isn’t it?
Jantar mantar was one of the top favourites of the husband man who thoroughly enjoyed every nook and corner of the marvel (AG recommended). I preferred to rest my legs a bit since physics wasn’t my favourite cup of tea or hot chocolate or whatever! 😛
We did a quick visit to the city palace too. Only few sections of the palace are open to the public since the Maharaja family currently reside in the other sections.
Hawa Mahal was the last touristy place we visited. Just grab a seat in the roof top cafe right opposite Hawa Mahal and you can catch a good view while sipping on that coffee or lemonade. The shop right opposite the mahal was my personal favourite! Bargain to the maximum possible and you can own some flairy skirts , cotton kurtis and much more! 🙂
One of the best parts about our trip was about to arrive! A very close friend of mine is from Jaipur and her parents had invited us home. We walked in and they welcomed us with aarti , a shawl and a pagdi – made us feel like a newly married couple all over again 🙂 The love and affection completely moved us! This is an example of ‘friends turning into family’! Fun conversations , good food and the most amazing people – what is not to love?
The train back home was a chair car and I wasn’t all that happy but I was proved completely wrong! It was a 3.5 hours journey and all that I remember was how much we hogged! We were welcomed with a water bottle , tea , samosa , sandwich , peanuts , soan papdi. In 40 minutes , tomato soup was served which was followed by dinner (except the roti , others were yummmm!!). To end it , there was ice cream and saunf! The staffs were polite and the service was remarkable!
We were on 6 different trains in a span of 10 days. Most of them were on time and all of them were very well maintained. My impression of a train journey got completely rewritten in my mind. The station platforms were clean , people could sit anywhere and everywhere without a fuss , toilets were cleaned regularly , bottle crushing plants were installed in most places and autos didn’t charge a bomb to drop us at hotels (the maximum we spent was INR 150). Good job , North Western Railways! 🙂
On the personal front, I give myself a pat on the back for completing this trip which spanned over 10 days. For a person who found it tough to travel even to the outskirts of Chennai , I have come a long way! To many more adventures in the coming years 😀
Quick tips –
- Audio guide recommended for the forts and jantar mantar.
- Winter clothing not necessary during the day. It ranges from being pleasant to warm.
- Try exploring small eateries which give you the authentic taste of Rajasthani cuisine.
- Choose recommended hostels or safaris which would make your experience memorable.
- Pack enough clothes as most hotels don’t allow washing (water conservation).
- Plan in advance and use train as the mode of transport (within city , night travel will save you time and worry of luggage weight).
- Bargain and shop to get the best deals.
- Must buy – tie and dye clothing,stuffed dolls,mirror work lehengas,paintings,quilts and bed sheets.
Ticket Prices
Jaisalmer –
- Safari – INR 2065/person
- Patwon-ki-haweli – INR 100/person + INR 50/person (2 havelis)
- Fort – INR 100/person + 100 (Camera)
Jodhpur –
- Umaid Bhawan Palace – INR 15/person (auto ride was INR 300 – not worth it)
- Jswant Thada – INR 30/person
- Clock Tower – INR 10/person
- Mehrangarh Fort – INR 100/person + 100 (camera) + 180 (AG)
Ajmer dargah -free entry but we ended up spending INR 190 (why? read it above)
Udaipur –
- Bagore-ki-haweli – INR 50/person + 50 (camera)
- City Palace – INR 300/person + 200 (AG)
Jaipur –
- Amer Fort – INR 100/person + 150 (guide)
- Jantar Mantar – INR 50/person + 200 (AG)
- City Palace – INR 130/person
Sorry if I had bored you with a long post but hey! It was a long holiday and it called for at least this long a post! 🙂
See you guys soon!